Why Bespoke #2

If the first reason to go bespoke is how it’s made, then the second reason is what is made.
There is nothing more frustrating than having a very clear idea of something in your head and not being able to find it.

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Like this backless waistcoat mentioned in a previous blog.

Or this groom who got married in New Zealand in their summer time. He wanted an English Country style suit but in an ultra lightweight cloth. So I made him an unlined jacket in a 9oz brown prince of wales check. The design of the cloth gave the appearance he wanted while the ultra fine material kept the temperature down.

Going bespoke doesn’t just mean the garment will be made to your measurements, it also means you can pick every aspect of it from the cloth and lining to the pocket style and trouser leg width.

Recently I had a customer who was after something with a retro feel; 1930’s inspired high-waisted, wide-legged trousers with a slightly longer than average jacket.

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It was such a joy to pour over old coffee shop books looking for inspiration, taking bits from here and there and combining them to create something with a modern feel.

The suit is made from a charcoal grey cashmere flannel, making it incredibly soft and warm. The grey is traditional without feeling dated. The single breasted lapels, although slightly wider thancurrent high street styles, are not nearly as ostentatious as the original 30's style.

He opted for double pleats on the trousers, giving a roomy fit, but then slightly tapering in at the bottom to keep them modern and practical.

What makes thispair of trousers particularly special is partly due to a mistake on my part. Getting carried away at the designing stage I suggested turn ups with a gauntlet hem thinking it couldn't be that complicated to do. Ahem!

After asking several tailors with much more experience and wisdom than me for help, they all laughed at me and said they would never offer it. Eek. By this time I had already promised to do it.

Eventually with an extra fitting, some guess work and a little cheating, I managed to find a way. And I am that bit prouder of this pair than any I've done before.

The high street is getting smarter at tailoring but it is still fairly generic and unexciting most of the time. By forking out that bit extra the sartorial world becomes your oyster.