1. Choosing cloth
The best bit (in my opinion) about getting a bespoke suit made is choosing the cloth. You pick the linings, the buttons, all the details and build up your ideal suit/garment. The word bespoke comes from this part of the process. A customer would choose his cloth which was then "bespoken" for.
I will then take up to 25 measurements - taking into consideration the posture, sleeve pitch and shoulder angle. And noting any asymmetrical areas.
3. Drafting the pattern
A bespoke pattern is then drafted onto card. This pattern will become the blueprint for your suit. As changes are made throughout the process these jigsaw pieces will be updated.
The pattern will then be used to cut out your chosen cloth. Extra cloth or "inlay" is left in various areas to allow for weight fluctuation over the years.
5. First fitting
The first fitting or "baste fitting" will be ready roughly a month after the measurements are taken. It will just be a shell of the suit loosely basted together. It will have the hand padded canvases in but no pockets or linings. At this stage I will be looking for places to refine and sculpt the suit even more specifically to you. How does the collar sit, for example - things that are harder to gauge with just a measuring tape.
The suit is then ripped down and remarked to show these adjustments. The differences between bespoke and made-to-measure now becomes important. The cloth is stretched, shrunk and moulded with an iron and a needle and thread to suit you. For example prominent shoulder blades require more room, this can be achieved by adding fullness into a shoulder seam. There will be at least two more fittings to check everything is perfect.
When you are happy that everything is as it should be, the suit will be hand finished. This means the linings will be felled into place, the buttonholes will be hand sewn and the front edges will be secured with a stab stitch.
The coat will then be taken to a professional presser who sets the shape. These experts use heavy irons and steam to prolong the shape of the coat ensuring it stays looking good for years to come. Finally the buttons are sewn on and it is delivered to your doorstep.